View Petroglyphs Along the Rugged Coast in Arecibo
Posted on Feb 23rd, 2008 by Gwenn • Updated on Sep 13th, 2009
Puerto Rico is an island with many different faces. It is both urban and country, modern and historical, laid-back and hurried, built-up and natural. If you visit Arecibo and La Cueva del Indio (Cave of the Indian), you will see it all – modern, country, nature and history – all in one day. To get there, you take Highway 22, past the Barceloneta Outlet mall. From this modern highway, turn onto some country roads and see rural Puerto Rico along the northern coast. At the caves, you will be transported back in time. The Taino Indians held tribal meetings in this area and made numerous carvings in the walls of these natural limestone caves. The petroglyphs are said to have been made during ceremonial activities. These petroglyphs pre-date Columbus’ arrival to Puerto Rico in 1493, and were probably made many centuries earlier.
Here is our trip: We pulled in at the small “cueva” sign on the side of the road, drove up a private driveway, and paid $2.00 to park on some guy’s lawn (His name was Richard). Richard, offered to walk us down to the petroglyphs and show us where they are. I don’t know if he always goes with the visitors, but if you go, you can ask him to go with you and, if he has time, I am sure he (and his dogs!) will. We thought going with someone who knew how and where to go made the experience better, since he knew the easiest and “safest” ways to go. He walked us along the rocks to the cave, where he pointed out the carvings and explained the why, when and how the Tainos made them. This cave is open to the sky, so you can see into it. Every once in a while, someone from PR Department of Natural Resources comes out to clean off the rocks and outline the carvings, so they are easier to see. When we went they were visible, just not as clear as possible.
It is a bit treacherous. To get to the caves, you need to walk across exposed limestone, which is sharp – take care not to fall! You should wear sturdy shoes – sneakers or something – not flip-flops or high heels. You will be looking over a ledge, down about 25 feet into the cave – be mindful of your footing. If you are agile and want to, you can somehow sneak down into the cave, Richard pointed out the way, but it looked difficult to me.
La Cueva del Indio is said to contain the largest number of petroglyphs found along the coastal zone. In 1992, the Planning Board of Puerto Rico designated Cueva del Indio as a Natural Reserve. Since then, the cave is managed by the Puerto Rico Department of Natural and Environmental Resources (DNER). They try to maintain it for conservation purposes. Unfortunately, there has been some vandalism of these beautiful historical carvings. "Rafe" decided he needed to make his mark here along with the Taino carvings. But, thankfully, even after all these years, the petroglyphs had withstood the natural and human forces, and are still around today for us to enjoy.
Richard also took us all around on the rocks to show us the views and watch the beautiful Atlantic waves crash on the beaches. There are just wonderful views in this area. Richard also was our photographer – taking our picture many times against some beautiful backdrops. There are huge cliffs, caves and even a natural bridge. There were big waves that day, so it was just beautiful.
I had read in a few travel books about how the area is not really "safe" and that your car may be broken into if you park on the road. Those books suggested to park at the Esso station or a food stand close by and walk to the caves from there. Having read this, we were a little unsure of going. But after hanging out with Richard for 30 minutes or so, we felt totally comfortable with this slightly odd, but friendly man. If we go again, we would definitely pay the money, park at his house and enjoy his hospitality! He seemed totally surprised with the tip we gave him – he just likes to share his little piece of heaven with everyone!
There is no "admission" price per se. This is not a "park" or anything like that. It’s just a cave on the edge of the sea. If you want to park in his private yard, or access the area by crossing his property, Richard will charge you $2.00 to park, or 50¢ per person to walk in.
Since it’s not a formal "park", there are no set hours that it’s open. I’d suggest going during daylight hours, otherwise you won’t be able to see anything!
Allow about 30 minutes to see the cave, petroglyphs and surrounding areas.
Take Route 22 and exit at Route 10 North (toward the ocean). Turn left, and then a quick right to get onto Road 681 (you’ll see signs for 681). Follow Road 681 until KM 7.8 or so. Richard has a sign on the left in the wooded area that says caves or Cueva del Indio. Pull into the dirt driveway and park in front of the house. Someone will come out to take your $2.00.
Travel time from the San Juan area is about 90 minutes one way.
























What a charming story! I know Taino sites often get ignored by tourists, since most people don’t know what they are, so it’s good to see you mentioning them. Arecibo is also a great town and deserves a stop, not only to see the observatory but just to experience all Arecibo has to offer.
Comment by Speaking Boricua on February 23rd, 2008 at 4:03 pmHI! I just returned from Puerto Rico and happened upon this very site!! Even some of the locals don’t know about this place-amazing! Richard was totally awesome and knowledgable about the petroglyphs. I took lots of pictures, and Richard took some of us in the scenery. I was totally amazed with the petroglyphs and the number of them. And as you stated, there is some vandalism which is a total shame. I was doing some rearch on the caves when I happened upon your article. Thanks for the confirmation!
Comment by Cathy on September 20th, 2008 at 9:16 pmI am shocked and delighted to learn that this piece of heaven still exist unspoiled!
I spent many days in ‘72 and ‘73 there as a boy. There was an old wooden ladder leading down into the cave then.
Some day’s the waves were as high as 20-25 feet, but most times it was smooth as glass and an absolutely magnificent place to snorkel.
And what an incrdible, pristine walk for many miles west along the coast.
I wonder…
Comment by Kay Luke on May 23rd, 2010 at 5:50 pmAre the cannons from the old spnish galleon still out there in the shallows?